The Mother Lode

Crafts and Crochet

by

Secret Heart Headband Crochet Pattern

Hearts are everywhere this time of year and I’m okay with it! I understand Valentine’s Day isn’t popular with everyone, but I really enjoy that, culturally, it’s like a reminder to show your love to someone. St. Valentine’s Feast Day is the origin of this holiday, but there have certainly been influences over the years to turn it into what we celebrate in 2025! When my oldest was a baby, I did a Valentine’s photo shoot in our guest bedroom and sent out cute Valentines to our family! (Did I do that for any of my other babies? Nope, that’s how life is lol!) Some years, if time allows, we do enjoy making Valentines together and sending them out!

The Secret Heart Headband has a tiny heart hidden in the back of the headband! I did this so you could absolutely make plain headbands, or add this sweet heart to the back, or really anywhere you like.

The texture on this headband crochet pattern is my favorite part. I used hdc in the 3rd loop and hdc BLO to create it. I’ll probably use it in another design soon, because it was easy and fun!

Worsted weight yarn and a 5 mm hook were my choice for this headband. I think it has great stretch and is going to be awesome to wear as the weather starts to warm up soon (I hope!) for Spring. I’ll probably still be wearing one of my bulky hats for a few more weeks like the Blustery Beanie or the Chill Stopper Beanie. Those are also available in many sizes so you can make matching sets.

Supplies

  • worsted (CYC 4) yarn: Color A: 100- 150 yards, Color B: 15 yards
  • crochet hook US size H (5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
  • tapestry sewing needle
  • scissors and measuring tape

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • st/sts = stitch/stitches
  • BLO = back loop only
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • dc = double crochet
  • hdc2tog = half double crochet two stitches together
  • hdc in the 3rd loop = half double crochet in the 3rd loop on the working side
  • FHDC = foundation half double crochet

Notes

  • Finished dimensions: baby: 14 in, toddler: 16 in, child: 18 in, teen/adult sm: 20 in, adult med: 21 in, adult lg: 22 in around. Feel free to use measurements to make this headband: repeat the rows as written to about 1 inch less than the measured head circumference.
  • Sizes are denoted by parentheses: baby (toddler, child) teen/adult sm, (adult med, adult lg.)
  • Stitch counts are marked at the end of each row in {brackets}.
  • Pattern is worked flat and seamed at the end.

Gauge

4 in by 4 in swatch = 18 sts in 15 rows of stitch repeat

Row 1: FHDC 20, ch 1, turn.

Row 2-3: Hdc BLO first st,* hdc in the 3rd loop next st, hdc BLO next st, repeat from * to last st, hdc in the 3rd loop final st, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc each st across, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Hdc each st across, ch 1, turn.

Repeat rows 2-5 respectively to row 16

Written Instructions: Baby, Toddler, Child

Baby (toddler, child) with Color A

Row 1: FHDC 12 (14, 14), ch 1, turn. {12 (14, 14) FHDC}

Row 2-3: Hdc BLO first st,* hdc in the 3rd loop next st, hdc BLO next st, repeat from * to last st, hdc in the 3rd loop final st, ch 1, turn. {6 (7, 7) hdc BLO, 6 (7, 7) hdc in the 3rd loop}

Row 4: Sc each st across, ch 1, turn. {12 (14, 14) sc}

Row 5: Hdc each st across, ch 1, turn. {12 (14, 14) hdc}

Repeat rows 2-5 respectively 12 (13, 14) times.

Finishing: Sc evenly along the following three edges of the band until you reach the beginning of the final row. Fasten off, leaving a long tail to seam the headband.

Written Instructions: Adult sizes

Teen/adult sm (adult med, adult lg) with Color A

Row 1: FHDC 16 (18, 20), ch 1, turn. {16 (18, 20) FHDC}

Row 2-3: Hdc BLO first st,* hdc in the 3rd loop next st, hdc BLO next st, repeat from * to last st, hdc in the 3rd loop final st, ch 1, turn. {8 (9, 10) hdc BLO, {8 (9, 10) hdc in the 3rd loop}

Row 4: Sc each st across, ch 1, turn. {16 (18, 20) sc}

Row 5: Hdc each st across, ch 1, turn. {16 (18, 20) hdc}

Repeat rows 2-5 respectively 16 (17, 18) times.

Finishing: Sc evenly along the following three edges of the band until you reach the beginning of the final row. Fasten off, leaving a long tail to seam the headband.

Written Instructions: Heart

with Color B

Row 1: Ch 2, sc 2nd st from hook, ch 1, turn. {1 sc}

Row 2: 3 sc, ch 1, turn. {3 sc}

Row 3: 2 sc, sc, 2 sc, ch 1, turn. {5 sc}

Row 4: 2 sc, sc next 3, 2 sc, ch 1, turn. {7 sc}

Row 5: Sc each st across, ch 1, turn. {7 sc}

Row 6: Sk 1st st, 4 dc next st, sk next st, sl st, ch 1, sk next st, 4 dc next st, sl st last st of row. {8 dc, 2 sl st}

Round 1: Sc 11 evenly around the bottom of the heart, placing a ch 1 at the bottom point of the heart, finish with sl st in the 1st dc at the top of the heart. {11 sc, 1 ch, 1 sl st} (This round only goes around the bottom of the heart, not the top part.) Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the band.

Assembly

Lay the band flat in front of you with the sc border facing you. Sew the heart onto the middle of the band with tail. Secure ends and cut tail. Next, put right sides together of band. Fold each right side end and sandwich together into four layers and sew together through all four layers. Turn right side out.

by

Chunky Fingerless Mittens

If you need to keep your fingers busy and your hands warm, make these chunky fingerless mittens! This pattern is called the Minimalist Mitts. I made a small size in a little over an hour! These would make a great gift set paired with the matching Minimalist Headband!

The set together was available in the Winter Sets Blog Hop hosted by Sandra Stitches in January 2025. You can still head to the blog round up to find a great selection of winter sets.

Some more pattern details! The pattern is written for 3 adult sizes, small, medium, and large. You’ll be working tight stitches with the thick yarn to keep it nice and warm! The pattern details call for an 8 and 9 mm hook, but definitely plan that you may need to go down to a 7 and 8 instead. You’ll need one skein of Lion Brand Yarn Wool Ease Thick and Quick. Several testers also had nice results with Bernat Blanket yarn. I also used the Bernat when I was testing the sizing and when I put that on my husband’s large hand he thought it felt so nice. Making these chunky fingerless mittens is a fun and fast project, I hope you love them!

The pattern for the mitts is below, free to use on the blog, and you can also zip here to the blog post containing the free matching headband I also offer the premium PDF in my pattern shops. This one includes 2 pages of photo tutorial to help with the half double crochet 3rd loop stitches, and of course, makes for easier offline crochet sessions.

ravelry
Etsy
Lovecrafts

Supplies

  • 100 yards super bulky (CYC 6) yarn, sample set is Lion Brand Yarn Wool Ease Thick-n-Quick
  • crochet hook size 8 mm AND 9 mm or sizes needed to obtain gauge
  • tapestry sewing needle
  • scissors and measuring tape

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • st/sts = stitch/stitches
  • BLO = back loop only
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • hdc in the 3rd loop = half double crochet in the 3rd loop on the working side
  • hdc 2 tog = half double crochet 2 sts together

Gauge Swatch

4 in by 4 in swatch, with 9 mm hook

10 sts in 8 rows of the pattern repeat which is:

*hdc, hdc in the third loop, repeat from * across

Notes

  • Finished dimensions: small 6.5 in tall, 4 in wide, medium: 7.5 in tall, 5 in wide, large 8 in tall, 5.5 in wide
  • Sizes are denoted by parentheses: small (medium/large.)
  • Stitch counts are marked at the end of each row in {brackets}.
  • Pattern is worked flat at the wrist, then seamed and finished in the round.
  • Do not turn after the first round, turn after all other rounds.
  • Ch 1 counts as a hdc in all hdc rounds.

Written Instructions

Small (medium, large)

with 8mm hook

Row 1: Ch 7 (8, 9), sc second ch from hook and each st until last, sl st last st, ch 1, turn. {5 (6, 7) sc, 1 sl st}

Row 2: Sl st BLO first st, sc BLO each st across, ch 1, turn. {5 (6, 7) sc BLO, 1 sl st BLO}

Row 3: Sc BLO each st across until last, sl st BLO last st, ch 1, turn. {5 (6, 7) sc BLO, 1 sl st BLO}

Rows 4-17 (19, 21): Repeat rows 2 and 3 respectively.

Sl st BLO of row 17 (19, 21) to row 1, switch to 9mm hook and turn right side out.

Round 1: Ch 1, sc 18 (20, 22) sts in the end of each row (placing 1 in the seam), sl st to beg sc, do not turn. {sc 18 (20, 22)}

Round 2: Ch 1, hdc each st around, sl st to beg hdc to join, ch 1, turn. {hdc 18 (20, 22)}

Round 3-6 (7, 8): Hdc in the 3rd loop first st, *hdc next st, hdc in the 3rd loop next st, repeat from * around, sl st to join, ch 1, turn. {hdc 9 (10, 11), hdc in the 3rd loop 9 (10, 11)}

Round 7 (8, 9): Hdc in the 3rd loop and hdc next st together, *hdc in the 3rd loop next st, hdc next st repeat from * around until last st, hdc in the 3rd loop last st, sl st to join, ch 1, turn. {hdc 8 (9, 10), hdc in the 3rd loop 8 (9, 10), 1 hdc 2 tog}

Continue for left mitten:

Round 8 (9, 10): Hdc first 3 sts, ch 3, sk 2 sts, hdc each st around, sl st to join, ch 1, turn. {hdc 15 (17, 19)}

Round 9 (10, 11): Sc each st around [sc 3 in ch-3 space], sl st to join, ch 1, turn. {sc 18 (20, 22)}

Round 10 (11, 12): Sc 2 tog, sc each st around, sl st to join, fasten off, weave in ends. {sc 17 (19, 21)}

Continue for right mitten:

Round 8 (9, 10): Hdc first 12 sts, ch 3, sk 2 sts, hdc each st around, sl st to join, ch 1, turn. {hdc 15 (17, 19)}

Round 9 (10, 11): Sc each st around [sc 3 in ch-3 space], sl st to join, ch 1, turn. {sc 18 (20, 22)}

Round 10 (11, 12): Sc 2 tog, sc each st around, sl st to join, fasten off, weave in ends. {sc 17 (19, 21)}

Okay, now go make a matching headband! I wear this headband often because it is so comfortable. I designed it so that it tapers at the neck and isn’t bulky back there, but the thick yarn is still very warm on your head and ears!

by

Easy Granny Stitch Cowl Pattern

Oh the drama when you see a great pattern and realize none of the yarns you have on hand will work for it! Should you look for a new pattern? Buy yarn? Use yarns held together? You won’t have any drama with this granny stitch cowl pattern! You can use ANY yarn for it! It’s made using measurements and relative gauge, so you can truly use whatever you like for this versatile project. I’m updating this post and I just made another cowl for a little girl, because I wanted it to be finished quickly and I knew I could use the bulky yarn I had on hand!

I like using the granny stitch, though I don’t often make granny squares. I think I dislike that you get all the squares finished and then have to block and sew them. I have TWO garments that I made all the squares for and then just left them in a project bag. Are you like me? Anyone?! Well, we can still use the quick and versatile granny stitch. In this cowl, you’ll use the granny stitch in turned rounds to make a cowl! I created this pattern so you can have it in your library and whip one of these up with whatever yarn you’ve got. Scraps? Perfect. Self-striping? Awesome. Saturated tonal? Stunning. Variegated? Delightful. You can use CYC weights 1 through 6 to create this cowl, they’ll just lay differently based on what the fiber content and weight is, but the pattern design will create the appropriate shape.

When I started really diving into crochet and developing a style and growing a yarn stash, I made a granny triangle scarf that turned out so pretty. I ended up joining it together on the ends to make a cowl. This was after making a triangle, I just sewed it together kind of higgledy-piggledy. It looked great in the front but not so much around the back of the neck. I think that was 4 years ago, and here I am finally making that concept a reality with this granny stitch cowl pattern. This, however, looks lovely in the back as well!

Let’s dive in for some of the particulars for this design. You really do not need to gauge swatch to try to meet a particular gauge, since we are using measurements as we go in this pattern. However, you may want to make a swatch to test the drape with your selected yarn and hook size, to get the desired drape. You’ll be using granny stitch, so make your gauge swatch in granny stitch. There is a different gauge swatch for each yarn weight. Use the hook size to get your desired look and drape. If you want to have a relaxed cowl that drapes daintily, you’ll want a larger hook size. If you want the cowl to sit up more stiffly next to the face to keep warm, use a smaller hook size. You need a tape measure to make this pattern, because you’ll be measuring as you go to get the appropriate sizing.

You can use the pattern here on the blog anytime for free! Bookmark the page and come back each time you pick up your work. If that doesn’t work for you, consider purchasing the PDF. I truly think this is one of those basic patterns you come back to again and again, and it’s versatile for style and yarn choice. Add it to your library in ravelry or purchase on Etsy. Okay, let’s get to it!

Abbreviations (US Terms):

  • ch = chain stitch
  • st/sts = stitch/stitches
  • sk = skip
  • dc = double crochet
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sp = space
  • MR = magic ring
  • beg = beginning
  • granny sp = space between each granny cluster
  • granny cluster = 3 dc

Special Stitches:

  • beg dec = ch 3, dc next granny sp
  • dec = dc each of next two granny sp

Supplies:

  • 100-450 yards yarn in desired size (samples as follows)
  • crochet hook sized to desired drape of yarn selected (samples as follows, see notes for details)
    • CYC 1: 3.25mm hook
    • CYC 2: 4mm hook
    • CYC 3: 5mm hook
    • CYC 4: 6mm hook
    • CYC 5: 9mm hook
    • CYC 6: 11mm hook
  • tapestry sewing needle
  • scissors and measuring tape

Gauge Swatch:

CYC 1: 4 in by 4 in swatch = 8.5 granny clusters in 17 granny rows

CYC 2: 4 in by 4 in swatch = 7 granny clusters in 14 granny rows

CYC 3: 4 in by 4 in swatch = 5 granny clusters in 10 rows

CYC 4: 4 in by 4 in swatch = 4 granny clusters in 9 granny rows

CYC 5: 4 in by 4 in swatch = 3 granny clusters in 6 granny rows

CYC 6: 4 in by 4 in swatch = 2.5 granny clusters in 4 granny rows

Notes:

  • Pattern is written to be made using measurements at certain points in the pattern to determine how many stitches, there are no stitch counts for this pattern.
  • Pattern is worked flat and in the round.
  • Finished dimensions: 20-22 in around, 15-17 in tall
  • I prefer a cowl to be a warm winter accessory. If this is being worn more as a fashion accessory, you may add an inch or two to either or both measurements to achieve a roomier cowl that doesn’t sit as close to the neck and face.
  • Think about the type of drape and warmth you want to achieve with your cowl and how the fiber choice affects that. Cotton, for example, is notoriously stiff. A cotton blend yarn, crocheted with a bit tighter hook for the yarn weight would provide a cowl that stays upright easily to cover your face. If you used a larger hook, however, with an acrylic fiber of the same weight yarn, it would drape beautifully but would not stand up in quite the same way.
  • Modification for a children’s size: 14 inches for the triangle measurement and 3 inches for the chain measurement.
  • Beg dec and dec each count as a granny cluster, so in rounds 3 and 5- end you’ll be working in the granny sp between the decreases.

Written Instructions for the Granny Stitch Cowl Pattern:

Granny Triangle:

Row 1: MR, ch 3, 2 dc into ring, ch 2, 3 dc into ring, pull ring closed, turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, sk 2 sts, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch 2-sp, sk 2 sts, 3 dc in last st, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, 3 dc in each granny sp until ch-2 sp (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch 2-sp, 3 dc in each granny sp until last st, 3 dc in last st, turn.

Repeat row 3 until long edge of triangle reaches approximately 16 inches.

Do not fasten off. Ch approximately 4 inches in multiples of 3. For example, fingering (CYC 1) sample was 30 chains = 4 in.

Sl st to opposite corner of triangle, turn.

Round 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, *sk 3 sts, 3 dc next st, repeat from * until end of chain, continue around granny triangle as above, sl st to top of beg ch 3, turn.

Round 2: Beg dec, 3 dc in each granny sp around granny triangle as above, dec at other end of triangle, 3 dc in each granny sp to end of straight row part, sl st to top of beg ch 3, turn.

Round 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, 3 dc each granny sp around and continue around granny triangle as above, sl st to top of beg ch 3, turn.

Round 4: Beg dec, 3 dc in each granny sp around granny triangle as above, dec at other end of triangle, 3 dc in each granny sp to end of straight row part, sl st to top of beg ch 3, turn.

Round 5-end: Repeat round 3 until desired length.

So what did you think? I thought this was so fun to make and I actually made FIVE (let’s update this to about 8!) of them! Here are the links again to my pattern shops if you need them!

ravelry
Etsy

Welcome! Are you new here!? I’m Priscilla and I like to design patterns for families to coordinate and match! Most of my accessory designs have sizes baby to adult. I also enjoy designing earrings with crochet thread. I offer 30+ patterns freely here on the blog as well as premium PDFs in my pattern shops. Sign up for my email newsletter! I typically send an email every Friday and I share news about crochet events and patterns, yarn sales, etc.

by

Martha Christmas Bauble

I enjoyed creating this Christmas Bauble pattern so much! I’m thinking I will want to keep designing them and thought it would be fun to give them all names of my favorite people. I’m starting with the Martha Christmas Bauble, for my sister, who is a wonderful person and I’m so lucky to be her sister! She is fun and practical and beautiful and just plain good. <3

This design starts with some cute puff stitches, changes to a crossed stitch and finally ends with a linen stitch. It’s made in 2 pieces and written for two colors. You could absolutely change it up to one color or several colors. I made one with a pretty, deep red and tan which will be gifted to my sister. She loves neutral colors and I think this will fit her style. The other sample I made is a bright green and white and that will go great with a lot of the bright red and green ornaments on one of my trees. (We are Christmas crazy and put up three trees.) I know, I KNOW. It’s excessive but I love it.

I hope you love making these! I used Lion Brand yarns for my samples. I used Basic Stitch and Wool Ease. I like the Wool Ease one better, I think the wool texture adds a good element to it. The Basic Stitch is smoother to work with, though, so think about that as well when choosing your worsted yarn.

You can use the free, written instructions right here on the blog to make this pattern, or head to one of my pattern shops and purchase the low-cost PDF. The PDF includes a photo tutorial pages to guide you through the rounds with ease.

ravelry
Etsy

Supplies

  • 30 yards each worsted yarn in 2 colors as desired (CYC 4) Color A: Tan, Color B: Red
  • crochet hook size 4.5 mm or size needed to obtain gauge
  • tapestry sewing needle
  • scissors and measuring tape
  • plastic craft ornament 80 mm size

Stitches (US Terms)

  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • st/sts = stitch/stitches
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sp = space
  • WS = wrong side
  • BLO = back loop only
  • dc = double crochet
  • MR = magic ring
  • puff = (yo, insert hook, pull up a loop) 3 times, yo, pull through all loops on hook
  • FLO = front loop only

Gauge

after completion of round 2 = 1.5 in diameter

Notes

  • Photo tutorial follows the written instructions.
  • Finished Dimensions: 9 in around
  • Stitch counts are marked at the end of each round in parentheses.
  • Pattern is worked in 2 pieces, then seamed together.
  • If using larger bauble, for example 100 mm, you could add one or two rounds of rounds 7 and 8
  • Ch 2 in round 4 counts as a stitch

Written Instructions

Make 2

Round 1: With color A, MR, 5 sc into MR, sl st to join. (5 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, (puff, ch 2, puff, ch 1) each st around, sl st to top of first puff to join. Switch to color B. (10 puff)

Round 3: Ch 1, (3 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in ch-1 sp) around, sl st to join. (20 sc)

Round 4: Ch 2, dc in last sc from round 3, (dc next unworked st, dc prev worked st) around, sl st to join with color A. (40 dc)

Round 5: (Ch 1, sc in between crossed dc sts from round 4) around, do not join, pull through final sc with color B. (20 sc)

Round 6: (Ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp) around, do not join, pull through final sc with color A.(20 sc)

Round 7: Sc in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around, do not join, pull through final ch with color B. (20 sc)

Round 8: Sc in sc from round 6, ch 1, (sc next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around, sl st to join.(20 sc)

Fasten off, may weave in ends or leave to tuck into ornament.

Place WS together and sl st the pieces together in the BLO side close to you and FLO other side around an 80 mm plastic Christmas bauble.

Thanks so much for visiting my blog today! I hope you had fun crocheting and getting ready for the season!

by

Marian Crown

There are several lovely Marian devotions to choose as a Saint costume! I’m not sure I could choose a favorite! I did some research about Marian crowns to write this crochet pattern. Often she is described as wearing a crown of roses or flowers. In May, churches all over the world crown statues of Mary, Mother of God with flowers. Some apparitions do not have her crowned like Our Lady of Guadalupe, but many others are: Our Lady of Fatima, Our Lady of Lourdes, and Our Lady of Knock. It is generally accepted, even in Protestant faiths that she is described in Revelations as wearing a crown of 12 stars. This design aims to allow you to make a crown for dress up for any of these Marian devotions for All Saints’ Day celebrations!

You can make a simple gold crown, or adorn with flowers or stars to fit the chosen devotion! This crown would also be suitable for dress up as St. Elizabeth of Hungary, Saint Hedwig of Poland, or Saint Margaret of Scotland. The basic crown is even simple enough for your son! Make it for a little Saint Salomon or Saint Leopold.

My long term goal is a whole collection of patterns for crochet Saint costumes! I’ll write at least one new one each year. Last year I created the Papal Mitre pattern. Head over to that blog post here. I love learning about Saints. I find their stories helpful in my faith journey. Often we think of Saints as being simply “holy people” but the reality is that they were human and had real struggles just like we do. It’s wonderful to know we have wonderful examples of how to follow Christ to help us do the same!

You can download this pattern totally free! I suggest you read through the pattern here, then download below. It helps my blog and you can get a feel for the pattern, thank you so much!

Materials

  • 75 yards CYC 4 worsted yarn, preferably gold, plus additional scrap yarn in colors as desired for stars and flowers (optional)
  • crochet hook size 4.5 mm or size needed to obtain gauge
  • tapestry sewing needle
  • scissors and measuring tape/gauge ruler
  • Aleene’s fabric stiffening spray (optional)

Stitches (US Terms)

ch = chain stitch

st/sts = stitch/stitches

FDC = foundation double crochet

sc = single crochet

sl st = slip stitch

sk = skip

hdc = half double crochet

picot = picot: ch 3, sl st third st from hook

MR = magic ring

dc = double crochet

tr = treble crochet

Notes

  • I’m suggesting this pattern as an intermediate pattern. The foundation round is tricky if you don’t have experience with it, however, you could absolutely chain and double crochet instead. It just won’t have quite the same stretch as the foundation double crochet.
  • SIZING: this pattern is sized for toddler and child, but you could adapt to any size using the stitch multiple of 6. Adjust the beginning FDC row smaller or larger in increments of 6. Generally recommended sizes: baby 15 inches, toddler 16 inches, child 18 inches, teen 19 inches, medium 20 inches, large 21 inches (These are about an inch less the head circumference measurement, to ensure that the crown stays on.)
  • Pattern for crown, leaves, and stars are worked in the round, flowers are worked flat, then sewn together.
  • Optional: spray the top with some fabric stiffening spray and shape as desired.

Gauge

2 in by 2 in swatch = 8 stitches in 4 rows of dc

Written Instructions

Crown

toddler (child)

Round 1: FDC 72 (78) sl st to join. [72 (78) FDC]

Round 2: Ch 3, *sk st, dc next st, ch 1, repeat from *around, sl st to join. [36 dc, 36 ch-1 (39 dc, 39 ch-1)]

Round 3: Ch 2, hdc each st and each ch-1 space around, sl st to join. [ 72 (78) hdc]

Round 4: Ch 2, hdc next 3 sts, {tr, picot, tr} next st, *hdc next 5 sts, {tr, picot, tr} next st, repeat from * until last 2, hdc last 2 sts, sl st to join. [60 hdc, 24 tr, 12 picot (65 hdc, 26 tr, 13 picot)]

Fasten off and weave in ends. Depending which way you worked the FDC, you may need to stitch the bottom edge of the crown together.

Stars: (make 12)

Round 1: MR, sc 5 into MR, sl st to join. [5 sc]

Round 2: *picot, sl st next st, repeat from * around. [5 picot, 5 sl st]

Fasten off, weave in one end, leave the other end long to sew onto crown.

Leaves: (make 2)

Round 1: MR, sc 5 into MR, sl st to join. [5 sc]

Round 2: Ch 3, sl st second and third ch from hook, sl st first st, 2 sc next st, {sc, picot, sc} next st, 2 sc next st, sl st last st. [2 sl st, 6 sc, 1 picot] Fasten off, weave in one end, leave the other end long to sew onto crown.

Flowers: (make 3)

Row 1: Ch 16, sc second st from hook and each st across, turn. [15 sc]

Row 2: Ch 1, sk st *{hdc, dc, hdc} next st, sl st next st, repeat from * across. [7 hdc/dc/hdc, 7 sl st] Fasten off, leave the ends long: one to roll the flower and sew into shape, and the other to sew onto crown.

Assembly:

To finish this crown, you could spray with some stiffening spray on the top rounds to give it more definition. I wouldn’t spray the first round so it’s able to stretch and be comfortable to wear.

Sew the stars onto the crown as desired. They could also be sewn on the peaks and stiffened them as well for a more pronounced star effect, or placed on the crown entirely as pictured. Note that only the toddler size will have the exact 12 peaks.

The sample has 3 flowers and 2 leaves. An additional style could be to add flowers all around the crown one leaf and one flower below each point.

I hope you enjoy making a crown or two! They are soft and easy to wear, especially for little ones. Okay now that you’ve read through the instructions, download the pattern below!

Marian Crown PatternDownload

Feel free to add to your ravelry library. I understand it’s convenient to have it there as well!

Other posts for All Saints’ Day

by

Maple Earrings

You are sure to fall in love with these Maple Earrings! Yep, I did write that silly pun to start off this blog post! My kiddos went back to school the week I’m writing this and they love a good joke like that! We went to a local ball game this summer and on the shuttle to the parking lot and an older gentleman told them a joke, which they answered with a joke of their own, and they went back and forth the whole way to the parking lot. It was such a sweet moment of connection! I think that is part of the fun of events and vacations and such in the summertime, those moments of interaction with strangers that remind us that, yes, humans are wildly different and varied, but we can almost always find common ground! I hope you had some moments like that as well this summer.

Okay back to fall and crochet and the reason you’re here!

Here are the links to my pattern shops so you can get the PDF where you prefer to shop! Please note that the code for today’s hop will only be valid on ravelry!

ravelry
Etsy
Lovecrafts

These Maple Earrings were so fun to design. The lacy, open design of the leaves makes them lighter and they have a very feminine look.

If PDFs aren’t for you, feel free to use the free version of the Maple Earrings pattern. I love to have free patterns here on my website for you! So let’s get to it!

Supplies

  • Size 10 crochet thread, colors as desired, approx 10 yards each set, sample is WeCrochet Curio size 10 Canary
  • Size 1.65 mm crochet hook
  • Tapestry needle and scissors
  • Earring findings: 2 fishhook style earrings per set
  • Jewelry pliers, or other small pliers
  • Fabric stiffener, like Aleene’s Fabric Stiffening Spray, t-pins, and a blocking mat

Stitches (US Terms)

ch = chain

hdc = half double crochet

sl st = slip stitch

st/sts = stitch/stitches

sc = single crochet

sk = skip

MR = magic ring

prev = prev

beg = beginning

sp = space

Special Stitches:

picot = ch 3, sl st into 1st ch

Notes

  • This pattern is worked in rows and rounds.
  • For the best look, stiffen the earrings. I use Aleene’s Fabric Stiffening Spray and t-pins on a blocking mat.
  • Stitch counts are marked in { } at the end of each round.
  • Finished dimensions: 1.75 in x 1.5 in
  • ( ) are used in the instructions for groups of stitches, and * are used in the pattern to help denote repetition as written.

Gauge

12 rows of single crochet with 13 sts = 1 inch square

Personally, I find the smallest hook I can handle for the thread size (for earrings) produces the best, tightly stitched look. As long as the stitches are small enough for the result to look nice, if it is a little bigger or smaller, there isn’t a “fit issue.”

Instructions

Make 2)

Row 1: MR, sc 5 into ring, cinch partially, ch 1, turn. {5 sc}

Row 2: 2 hdc in each of first 2 sts, 3 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in each of last 2 sts, turn. {11 hdc}

Row 3:*Ch 5, sk st, sl st next st; repeat from * across, turn. {5 ch-5, 5 sl st}

Round 4: (2 sc, picot, 2 sc) into ch-5 sp, sl st into corresponding hdc two rows down, *5 sc into next ch-5 sp, sl st into corresponding hdc two rows down, repeat from * 2 times; (2 sc, picot, 2 sc) into ch-5 sp.

Continuing along bottom of leaf: sc evenly 2 until MR, sc in MR, ch 4, sl st 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs, sc in MR, sc evenly 2 until beg of Round 4, sl st to beg sc of Round 4 to join, fasten off. {2 picot, 1 ch-4, 8 sl st, 28 sc}

Row 5: Attach thread in 1st sc of 5 sc series from Round 4, then *ch 2, picot, ch 1, picot, ch 1, picot, ch 2, sk 3 sts, sl st, sk st, sl st, repeat from * 2 times. {6 ch-2, 6 ch-1, 9 picot, 6 sl st}

Finish off and weave in ends.

Blocking and Assembly

Pin earring to blocking mat. Spray from about 6-10 inches away with fabric stiffening spray, or pour some of the spray liquid into a small cup and paint the liquid on. Once dry, use the jewelry pliers to attach fish hook style earring to a stitch in last row. Make sure to mirror the earrings

Thank you so much for joining me for this blog hop! This is a fun event and I’m really enjoying it. Head back to the hop and bookmark it so you don’t miss any of the great patterns! There are some you do not want to miss!

by

Fun in the Sun Earrings

I agonized over the naming of these earrings! I hope the name makes you think of sunny beach days, family barbeques, and summer road trips; basically some of the highlights of summer! I enjoyed making these suns so much, I ended up making several versions! This pattern has three different sun crochet earrings, but I kept them as one pattern as they have so many similarities.

Thanks for joining me for the March Maker Madness event! You can get this pattern free as part of this event on Friday, March 27th, 2026! Pam from Carroway Crochet is hosting this great event with tons of great seasonal patterns. Find the download button below! As part of this event, you can get a low cost bundle with all of the patterns in the blog event! This is a great way to add to your pattern stash, especially for spring patterns.

These are being released as part of the Summer Earring COLLECTION! The first pattern released in this collection was the Popsicle Earrings, which you can find right here. The Popsicle Earrings are the easiest to make in the collection, so if you are new to thread crochet earrings, start there! This collection was created with gorgeous crochet thread from WeCrochet, Curio size 10. I love the sheen their thread has and I think the color palette is superior in its modernity.

These solar dangles definitely look best when they are blocked. I use Aleene’s stiffening spray and that’s what I recommend. There are other options like regular fabric starch or a mixture of glue and water. Whatever gets them to hold their shape best for you!

As I typically do, I created the PDF for this pattern so you can download and use it easily on your device or print it out. Here are the links to my pattern shops! (Psssst, if you aren’t subscribed to my newsletter, you are missing out on the best discounts for my PDF patterns!)

ravelry
lovecrafts
etsy

All right, enough jabbering, I know you’re here for the pattern, so let’s get to it!

Supplies

  • Size 10 crochet thread, colors as desired, approx 10 yards each set, samples are WeCrochet Curio size 10 Canary and Clementine
  • Size 1.5 mm crochet hook
  • Tapestry needle and scissors
  • Earring findings: 2 fishhook style earrings per set, 2 12 mm hoops for variation Sunny Day
  • Jewelry pliers, or other small pliers
  • Fabric stiffener, like Aleene’s Fabric Stiffening Spray, t-pins, and a blocking mat

Stitches (US terms)

  • ch = chain
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • st/sts = stitch/stitches
  • tr = treble crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • sk = skip
  • MR = magic ring
  • sc = single crochet
  • prev = prev
  • beg = beginning
  • Special Stitches:
  • picot = ch 3, sl st into 1st ch
  • inc = increase (2 hdc in same stitch)

Gauge

2 rows of single crochet with 13 sts = 1 inch square

Personally, I find the smallest hook I can handle for the thread size (for earrings) produces the best, tightly stitched look for these sun crochet earrings. As long as the stitches are small enough for the result to look nice, if it is a little bigger or smaller, there isn’t a “fit issue.”

Notes

  • Patterns worked in joined rounds, except Sunny Day which is partly continuous rounds as noted below.
  • For the best look, stiffen the earrings. I use Aleene’s Fabric Stiffening Spray and t-pins on a blocking mat.
  • Stitch counts are marked in { } at the end of each round.
  • Finished dimensions: Solar Flare: 2 in diameter, Sunshine and Sunny Day: 1.5 in diameter
  • The stitch multiple for the Sunny Day earring is 4 + 2. Use this multiple to use any size hoop.
  • If you have trouble getting the sl st into the first ch for the picot, try going into just one bar of the st. It won’t change the finished piece more than just a smidgen.

Written Instructions

Solar Flare (Make 2)

Round 1: MR, hdc 6 into ring, sl st to 1st hdc to join. {6 hdc}

Round 2: Ch 2, inc each st around, sl st to beg ch-2 to join. {12 hdc}

Round 3: Ch 3, dc 1st st, then (dc, ch 1, dc) each st around, sl st to beg ch-3 join. {23 dc}

Round 4: Sl st into sp between next 2 sts, then ch 5, tr in same space, then tr, ch 2, tr in each ch 1-sp around, sl st to 3rd ch of ch-5 to join. {23 tr}

Round 5: (Ch 3, dc in ch-2 sp, picot, ch 3, sl st next 2 tr) repeat around, sl st to ch-3 to join. {12 picot}

Finish off and weave in ends.

If you are struggling at all with the pattern, reach out to me on Instagram @motherlodecrafts, or head over to my pattern shops for the PDF, which contains 2 pages of photo tutorial.

ravelry
lovecrafts
etsy

Sunshine (Make 2)

Round 1: MR, hdc 6 into ring, sl st to 1st hdc to join. {6 hdc}

Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc each st around, sl st to beg ch-2 to join. {12 hdc}

Round 3: Ch 5, tr prev st, ch 1, sk st *(tr, ch 2, tr) next st, ch 1, sk st, repeat from * around, sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. {13 tr}

Round 4: (Ch 3, picot, ch 3, sl st next tr, sl st ch 1-sp, sl st next tr) repeat around, sl st to beg ch-3 to join. {7 picot}

Finish off and weave in ends.

sun crochet earrings

Sunny Day (Make 2) Continuous rounds, do not sl st to join, except last round.

Round 1: Sc 22 sts around 12 mm hoop. {22 sc}

Round 2: *Hdc, inc, repeat from * around. {33 hdc}

Round 3: *Ch 3, picot, ch 3, sk 2 sts, sl st next st, repeat from * around, sl st to join. {11 picot}

Finish off and weave in ends.

Blocking and Assembly

Pin earring to blocking mat. Spray from about 6-10 inches away with fabric stiffening spray, or pour some of the spray liquid into a small cup and paint the liquid on. Once dry, use the jewelry pliers to attach fish hook style earring to a stitch in 2nd to last round, in between one of the rays or through top of one of the rays.

Don’t forget to go check out the first pattern in this summer earrings collection. The Popsicle Earrings are so easy and you can really play around with the colors!

by

First Tulips Bonnet

Bonnets are such a great accessory for those tricky toddlers who pull hats right off! I think they aren’t much more work than making a hat and I think I’ll have to design another bonnet this fall for my toddler. This design was inspired by happy spring tulips. I love those first spring bulbs that emerge year after year. This year I replanted so many bulbs from another flower bed in my yard and they all survived and bloomed beautifully!

Okay let’s make a bonnet! You’ll need some worsted yarn in three colors, with one of them preferably being green for the leaves. You could do any colors that you like for spring! One of my testers made a gorgeous one with dark and light green and it was lovely! It looks more neutral so if you tend towards a neutral palette you can still make it work!

I used a 5.5 mm hook, and I highly suggest you gauge swatch. If you tend to a looser crochet, you’ll need to size down. You need to have a tapestry needle for weaving in ends and scissors and a measuring tape. I hope you love making this pattern! Please don’t forget to share your work with me on Facebook or Instagram, I’d love to see it!

Here you can find the free version of the pattern. It has all the written information of the pattern. The PDF is available on ravelry, Etsy, and Lovecrafts and that includes a sizing chart and photo guide. I also put each size on its own 2 pages so you could just print the size you want instead of all 12 pages.

Supplies

  • CYC 4 worsted yarn: 100-150 yards color A, 50 yards color B, 50 yards color C (sample is Lion Brand Yarn Basic Stitch: A white, B yellow, C green)
  • crochet hook US size I (5.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
  • tapestry sewing needle
  • scissors and measuring tape/gauge ruler

Stitches (US Terms)

ch = chain

st/sts = stitch/stitches

BLO = back loop only

sc = single crochet

dc = double crochet

sl st = slip stitch

reverse sc= reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch)

hdc = half double crochet

inc = two stitches in the same stitch

dc v-st = double crochet, ch 1, double crochet in same stitch

puff = {4 double crochet cluster} (yo, insert hook in st, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) 4 times, yo, pull through all loops on hook

Gauge Swatch

4 in by 4 in swatch = 14 stitches in 12 rows of hdc

Notes

  • For inc, use whatever stitch that row calls for, I’ve put it in bold in each row with increases.
  • Stitch counts are marked in [ ] at the end of each row.
  • After fastening off in row 5 of the bonnet section, you will use sl sts to connect the half circle shaped rows to row 5. These sl sts are not to be worked into; they act as the ch 2 to start the new half circle shaped rows.
  • Each size has its own section in the pattern, find the size you want below!

Written Instructions

Size: Infant (0-6 months)

Neckband

Row 1: Ch 6, sc 2nd ch from hook and each st across, turn. [5 sc]

Row 2: Ch 1, sc, sc BLO each st across, turn. [1 sc, 4 sc BLO]

Row 3: Ch 1, sc BLO until last, sc, turn. [4 sc BLO, 1 sc]

Rows 4-28: Repeat rows 2 and 3 respectively.

Turn to the side.

Bonnet Tulip Section

Row 1: Sc the end of 1st row, 1 sc end of each row to last, turn. [28 sc]

Row 2: Do not chain, inc, *sc next 7, inc, sc next 3, inc, sc next 2, inc , sc next 3, inc, sc next 7 inc. [34 sc]

Change to color B

Row 3: Ch 2, dc next 2, sk st, *dc v-st, sk 2 sts, repeat from * until last 5 sts, sk 2 sts, dc next 2, dc last st, turn. [5 dc, 12 dc v st]

Change to color C

Row 4: Ch 2, dc next 2, puff next ch-1 sp * ch 2, puff next ch-1 sp, repeat from * until last 3, ch 1, dc last 3 sts, turn. [5 dc, 9 puff]

Change to color A

Row 5: Sc first 3 sts, sc in ch-1 sp, *sc, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, repeat from * until last puff, sc in ch-1 sp, sc last 3 sts, turn. [34 sc] Fasten off, weave in ends.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Bonnet Top

Attach yarn in 17th st of prev row. In this portion of pattern, all the sl sts are going into Row 5 above. The 2 sl sts at the end of each row act as the ch 2 to start the row, and you will not work into these.

Row 1: Ch 3, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [3 ch, 2 sl st]

Row 2: Hdc, 3 hdc, hdc, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [5 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 3: Hdc next 2, 3 hdc, hdc next 2, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [7 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 4: 2 hdc each st across, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [14 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 5: *Inc, hdc, hdc, repeat from * twice, then hdc, inc, hdc next 2, inc, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [20 hdc, 2 sl sts]

Row 5: Hdc each st across, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [20 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 6: Hdc first 5, dc next 10, hdc last 5, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [10 hdc, 10 dc, 2 sl st]

Row 7-10: Repeat row 6

Row 11-15: Hdc first 3, dc next 14, hdc last 3, sl st next 2 sts, do not turn. [6 hdc, 14 dc, 2 sl st]

Row 16: Reverse sc each st across. [20 reverse sc]

Fasten off, weave in ends

Tie (make 2 all sizes)

With color B or C as desired:

Ch 35, sl st 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. [34 sl st]

Attach with 2 sl sts to bottom corner of neckband, one tie on each corner. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Feeling stuck? This is an intermediate pattern. You might need the PDF! Get it here on ravelry!

Size: Baby (6-12 months)

Neckband

Row 1: Ch 6, sc 2nd ch from hook and each st across, turn. [5 sc]

Row 2: Ch 1, sc, sc BLO each st across, turn. [1 sc, 4 sc BLO]

Row 3: Ch 1, sc BLO until last, sc, turn. [4 sc BLO, 1 sc]

Rows 4-36: Repeat rows 2 and 3 respectively.

Turn to the side.

Bonnet Tulip Section

Row 1: Sc the end of 1st row, 1 sc end of each row to last. [36 sc]

Row 2: Do not chain, inc, *sc next 6, inc, sc next 7, inc, sc next 4, inc , sc next 7, inc, sc next 6, inc, turn. [42 sc]

Change to color B

Row 3: Ch 2, dc next 2, sk st, *dc v-st, sk 2 sts, repeat from * until last 5 sts, dc v-st, sk st, dc next 2, dc last st, turn. [5 dc, 12 dc v st]

Change to color C

Row 4: Ch 2, dc next 2, ch 1, puff next ch-1 sp, *ch 2, puff next ch-1 sp, repeat from * until last 4 sts, ch 1, dc next 2, dc last st, turn. [5 dc, 12 puff]

Change to color A

Row 5: Sc first 3 sts, sc in ch-1 sp, *sc, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, repeat from * until last puff, sc in ch-1 sp, sc last 3 sts, turn. [42 sc]

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Bonnet Top

Attach yarn in 21st st of prev row. In this portion of pattern, all the sl sts are going into Row 5 above. The 2 sl sts at the end of each row act as the ch 2 to start the row, and you will not work into these.

Row 1: Ch 3, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [3 ch, 2 sl st]

Row 2: Hdc, 3 hdc same st, hdc, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [5 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 3: Inc, hdc, inc, hdc, inc, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [8 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 4: Inc, hdc, inc, hdc, hdc, inc, hdc, inc, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [12 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 5: *Inc, hdc, hdc, repeat from *; **hdc, hdc, inc, repeat from **, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [16 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 6: Inc, hdc next 3, inc, hdc, hdc, inc, inc, hdc, hdc, inc, hdc next 3, inc, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [22 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 7: Hdc each st across, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [22 hdc, 2 sl st]

Rows 8-10: Hdc first 4, dc next 14, hdc last 4, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [8 hdc, 14 dc, 2 sl st]

Row 11-13: Repeat row 7

Row 14-18: Hdc first 3, dc next 16, hdc last 3, sl st next 2 sts. Do not turn. [6 hdc, 16 dc, 2 sl st]

Row 19: Reverse sc each st across. [22 reverse sc]

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Tie (make 2 all sizes)

With color B or C as desired:

Ch 35, sl st 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. [34 sl st]

Attach with 2 sl sts to bottom corner of neckband, one tie on each corner. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Size: Toddler (1-4 yrs)

Neckband

Row 1: Ch 6, sc 2nd ch from hook and each st across, turn. [5 sc]

Row 2: Ch 1, sc, sc BLO each st across, turn. [1 sc, 4 sc BLO]

Row 3: Ch 1, sc BLO until last, sc, turn. [4 sc BLO, 1 sc]

Rows 4-40: Repeat rows 2 and 3 respectively.

Turn to the side.

Bonnet Tulip Section

Row 1: Sc the end of 1st row, 1 sc end of each row to last, turn. [40 sc]

Row 2: Do not chain, inc, *sc next 7, inc, sc next 7, inc, sc next 3, inc, sc next 3, inc, sc next 7, inc, sc next 7, inc. [48 sc]

Change to color B

Row 3: Ch 2, dc next 2, sk st, *dc v-st, sk 2 sts, repeat from * until last 5 sts, dc v-st, sk st, dc next 2, dc last st, turn. [5 dc, 14 dc v st]

Change to color C

Row 4: Ch 2, dc next 2, ch 1, puff next ch-1 sp, *ch 2, puff next ch-1 sp, repeat from * until last 4 sts, ch 1, dc next 2, dc last st, turn. [5 dc, 14 puff, 28 ch]

Change to color A

Row 5: Sc first 3 sts, sc in ch-1 sp, *sc, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, repeat from * until last puff, sc in ch-1 sp, sc last 3 sts, turn. [48 sc]

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Bonnet Top

Attach yarn in 24th st of prev row. In this portion of pattern, all the sl sts are going into Row 5 above. The 2 sl sts at the end of each row act as the ch 2 to start the row, and you will not work into these.

Row 1: Ch 3, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [3 ch, 2 sl st]

Row 2: Hdc, 3 hdc, hdc, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [5 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 3: Inc, hdc, inc, hdc, inc 2, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [8 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 4: 2 hdc each st across, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [16 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 5: Inc, hdc, hdc, hdc, inc, hdc, hdc, inc, inc, hdc, hdc, inc, hdc, hdc, hdc, inc, sl st next 2 sts of neckband, turn. [22 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 6: *Inc, hdc, hdc repeat from * until last, inc last st, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [28 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 7: Hdc each st across, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [28 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 8: Repeat row 7. [28 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 9: Hdc first 9, dc next 10, hdc last 9, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [18 hdc, 10 dc, 2 sl st]

Row 10-14: Repeat row 9. [18 hdc, 10 dc, 2 sl st]

Row 15-17: Repeat row 7. [28 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 18-21: Hdc first 3, dc next 22, hdc last 3, sl st next 2 sts, do not turn. [6 hdc, 22 dc, 2 sl st]

Row 22: Reverse sc each st across. [28 reverse sc]

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Tie (make 2 all sizes)

With color B or C as desired:

Ch 35, sl st 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. [34 sl st]

Attach with 2 sl sts to bottom corner of neckband, one tie on each corner. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Size: Child (4-10 yrs)

Neckband

Row 1: Ch 8, sc 2nd ch from hook and each st across, turn. [7 sc]

Row 2: Ch 1, sc, sc BLO each st across, turn. [1 sc, 6 sc BLO]

Row 3: Ch 1, sc BLO until last, sc, turn. [6 sc BLO, 1 sc]

Rows 4-44: Repeat rows 2 and 3 respectively.

Turn to the side.

Bonnet Tulip Section

Row 1: Sc the end of 1st row, 1 sc end of each row to last, turn. [44 sc]

Row 2: Do not chain, inc, *sc next 7, inc, sc next 7, inc, sc next 4, inc, sc next 5, inc, sc next 7, inc, sc next 7, inc. [51 sc]

Change to color B

Row 3: Ch 2, dc next 2, sk st, *dc v-st, sk 2 sts, repeat from * until last 5 sts, dc v-st, sk st, dc next 2, dc last st, turn. [5 dc, 15 dc v-st]

Change to color C

Row 4: Ch 2, dc next 2, ch 1, puff next ch-1 sp, *ch 2, puff next ch-1 sp, repeat from * until last 4 sts, ch 1, dc next 2, dc last st, turn. [5 dc, 15 puff]

Change to color A

Row 5: Sc first 3 sts, sc in ch-1 sp, *sc, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, repeat from * until last puff, sc in ch-1 sp, sc last 3 sts, turn. [51 sc]

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Bonnet Top

Attach yarn in 25th st of prev row. In this portion of pattern, all the sl sts are going into Row 5 above. The 2 sl sts at the end of each row act as the ch 2 to start the row, and you will not work into these.

Row 1: Ch 3, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [3 ch, 2 sl st]

Row 2: Hdc, 3 hdc, hdc, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [5 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 3: Hdc next 2, 3 hdc, hdc next 2, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [7 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 4: 2 hdc each st across, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [14 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 5: *Inc, hdc, hdc, repeat from *, inc, repeat from * 2 times, inc, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [20 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 6: *Inc, hdc, repeat from * 2 times hdc, inc, hdc, inc, inc, hdc, inc, hdc, **hdc, inc, repeat from ** 2 times, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [30 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 7: *Inc, hdc next 4, inc, hdc next 5, inc, hdc next 6, hdc next 5, inc, hdc next 4, inc, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [36 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 8: Hdc each st across, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [36 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 9: Repeat row 8 [36 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 10: Hdc first 10, dc next 16, hdc last 10, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [16 dc, 20 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 11-15: Repeat row 10 [20 hdc, 16 dc, 2 sl st]

Row 16-18: Repeat row 8 [36 hdc, 2 sl st]

Row 19-24: Hdc first 5, dc next 30, hdc last 5, sl st next 2 sts, turn. [12 hdc, 24 dc, 2 sl st]

Row 25: Reverse sc each st across. [36 reverse sc]

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Tie (make 2 all sizes)

With color B or C as desired

Ch 35, sl st 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. [34 sl st]

Attach with 2 sl sts to bottom corner of neckband, one tie on each corner. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Thank you so much!

I hope you loved this pattern! Please share it with me on social media! And reach out to me there if you have any trouble with the pattern as well, I’m happy to help!

by

Minimalist Headband

I had a WAY better title picked out for this headband, but unfortunately, ravelry wasn’t understanding that it was a common phrase and not a keyword. Technology, ugh! So Minimalist Headband is the pseudonym for the Long Hair, Don’t Care Headband. Cute, right? This pattern is designed to wear easily under your hair, keeping your ears warm, without adding a bunch of bulk under there.

Minimalist as a title fits, too. It’s an easy repeat, and worked flat with one seam, so it is a pretty minimal pattern! I think it looks very stylish in any of the Lion Brand Yarn Wool Ease Thick and Quick colors. I made three samples with different yarns, a variegated blue called River Run, a deep aqua called Succulent, and a sparkly one! I have to tell you that the sparkle was really fun. I don’t usually use yarn with tinsel in it, but because this yarn is so thick, it’s not hard to work with.

Winter Sets Blog Hop

Let’s get that PDF on ravelry!

Join in the fun of this beautiful Winter Sets Blog Hop hosted by Sandra Stitches! You can get the Minimalist Headband and the new matching Minimalist Mitts together! Hit the button below to head to the blog post for a free coupon code to use on ravelry!

Okay, now scroll down to the ravelry download button to use the code! Both the Minimalist Mitts pattern and the headband pattern files are in each ravelry listing, so you can download them both with either pattern.

Supplies

  • 100 yards super bulky (CYC 6) yarn, sample is Lion Brand Yarn Wool Ease Thick-n-Quick
  • crochet hook US size N (9 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
  • tapestry sewing needle
  • scissors and measuring tape

Stitches (US Terms)

ch = chain

sc = single crochet

st/sts = stitch/stitches

BLO = back loop only

hdc = half double crochet

sl st = slip stitch

sc2tog = single crochet two stitches together

hdc in the 3rd loop = half double crochet in the 3rd loop on the working side

Notes:

  • Finished dimensions: child: 18 in, teen/adult sm: 20 in, adult med: 21 in, adult lg: 22 in around.
  • Sizes are denoted by parentheses: child (teen/adult sm, adult med, adult lg.)
  • Stitch counts are marked at the end of each row in {brackets}.
  • Pattern is worked flat and seamed at the end.

Gauge Swatch

4 in by 4 in swatch

10 sts in 8 rows of the pattern repeat which is:

*hdc, hdc in the third loop, repeat from * across

Written Instructions

Child (teen/adult sm, adult med, adult lg)

Row 1: Ch 32 (38, 40, 44) hdc second st from hook and each st across, ch 1, turn. {31 (37, 39, 43) hdc}

Row 2: Hdc first st,* hdc in the 3rd loop next st, hdc next st, repeat from * to end of row, ch 1, turn. {16 (19, 20, 22) hdc, 15 ( 18, 19, 21) hdc in the 3rd loop}

Rows 3-6: Repeat row 2.Child/teen skip to row 8.

Adult Med/Lg ONLY: Row 7: Repeat row 2.

Row 8: Hdc each st across. {31 (37, 39, 43) hdc} Do not fasten off.

Next make the band that goes behind the head.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc evenly 9 in the end of rows previously made, ch 1, turn. {9 sc}

Row 2: Sc2tog BLO, sc BLO next 5, sc2tog BLO, ch 1, turn. {2 sc2tog BLO, 5 sc BLO}

Row 3: Sc2tog BLO, sc BLO next 3, sc2tog BLO, ch 1, turn. {2 sc2tog BLO, 3 sc BLO}

Row 4-10: Sc BLO each st across, ch 1, turn. {5 sc BLO}

Row 11: 2 sc BLO, sc BLO each st until last, 2 sc BLO last st, ch 1, turn. {7 sc BLO}

Row 12: 2 sc BLO, sc BLO each st until last, 2 sc BLO last st, ch 1, turn. {9 sc BLO}

Sl st BLO evenly across the other edge of headband (9 sl st BLO). Fasten off, weave in ends.

Don’t forget there is a beautiful new chunky fingerless mittens pattern that matches this headband! It’s available free on the blog right here. Oh and the mittens pattern is QUICK! I made a pair in about an hour!

by

The Blustery Beanie

I’m over the moon to share my new crochet pattern! Getting back into designing crochet patterns has been a long road this past year. I designed a few things just for family and friends, but I only just got the extra pep in my step to leap back into publishing designs! I truly love doing this and I hope the coming months bring many more designs to you.

My current favorite yarn is the Lion Brand Hue + Me. I just love the color palette and the coziness of this yarn! I let it inspire me into this bulky weight beanie, perfect for blustery days. This pattern uses large, textured stitches that are fun to make and work up quickly. The texture provides enough interest to make this hat with a single color like mine, but using multiple colors can give you more vibrant look. I wrote the pattern for sizes baby to adult so I could match my mini-me, and you can too! The texture of this hat is a tiny bit feminine, but I think it could work in a solid dark color for a more masculine look, too, so you could do a whole family set with this pattern! I hope you’ll share with me over on ole Instagram if you make one!

I am putting this one up in my shops. Currently it’s available on ravelry and Etsy. The stitches are mildy tricky, my testers rated this pattern intermediate. So if you need extra help, consider the PDF. It has photo tutorial pages for the stitches that will help you!

Supplies

  • 125-150 yards bulky (CYC 5) yarn, samples: Lion Brand Yarn Hue +Me OR for multiple colors: color A: 75-100 yds, color B: 25-50 yds, color C: 25-50 yds
  • crochet hook US size L (8 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
  • tapestry sewing needle
  • scissors and measuring tape/gauge ruler
  • pom and button to make it removable (optional)

Stitches (US terms)

ch = chain stitch

st/sts = stitch/stitches

BLO = back loop only

sk = skip

esc = extended single crochet

dc = double crochet

sc = single crochet

sl st = slip stitch

MR = magic ring

sp = space

Special Stitches

beg CL = beginning cluster: ch 3, yo, insert hook in same stitch as ch-3, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook in same stitch, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook

CL = double crochet 3 stitches together in same stitch

puff = puff stitch: yo, insert hook in next ch-1 space, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook in same stitch, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook, sc in previous stitch

If you think you may need help with these stitches, consider purchasing the PDF of this pattern. It has 2 pages of photo tutorials to help you with the special stitches. It’s available here on ravelry or here on Etsy!

Gauge Swatch

4 in by 4 in swatch = 6 rows of pattern repeat below x 10 esc sts/ 5 CL sts/ 5 puff sts

Row 1: ch 17, esc 2nd st from hook and each across, ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Beg CL, *ch 1, sk st, CL next st, repeat from * across dc in last st, ch 2, turn.

Row 3: puff first 2 sts, repeat puff to end of row ch 1, turn.

repeat rows 1, 2, and 3 respectively

Notes

  • Finished hat circumference: baby 15 inches, toddler 16 inches, child 18.5 inches, teen 20 inches, medium 21 inches, large 22 inches
  • Sizes are marked with parentheses (baby {toddler, child} ) and stitch counts are marked at the end of each row in brackets [baby {toddler, child} ].
  • Pattern is worked in the round, except for the band which is worked in rows attached.
  • Alternative to MR : ch 4, sl st to 1st ch, work round 1 as written in pattern.

Written Instructions

Baby, Toddler, Child

Hat Body

Round 1: MR, sc 4 into MR, sl st to first sc to join, ch 1. [4sc]

Round 2: 2 esc each st around, sl st to first esc to join, ch 1. [8 esc]

Round 3: 2 esc each st around, sl st to first esc to join, ch 1. [16 esc]

Round 4: 2 esc first st, esc next st then * 2 esc next st, esc next st repeat from * around, sl st to first esc to join, ch 1. [ 24 esc]

Round 5: 2 esc first st, esc next 3 sts then * 2 esc next st, esc next 3 sts, repeat from *, sl st to first esc to join. [30 esc]

BABY SKIP TO ROUND 7

Round 6: Ch 1, 2 esc first st, esc next 4 sts, *2 esc next st, esc next 4 sts, repeat from * around, sl st to first esc to join. [36 esc]

Round 7: Beg CL, ch 1, *sk next st, CL next st, ch 1, repeat from * around, sl st to top of beg CL, ch 1. [1 beg CL, 15 {18, 18} CL, 15 {18, 18} ch-1]

Round 8: Puff each st around, sl st to top of first puff to join. [15 {18, 18} puff]

Round 9: Ch 1, esc each st around. [30 {36, 36} esc]

Round 10: Repeat round 7

Round 11: Repeat round 8

Round 12: CHILD ONLY Repeat round 9 (baby/toddler skip to brim)

Hat Brim:

Row 1: Ch 5, turn. Sc 2nd st from hook and each st, then sl st in the next 2 sts of the last row of the hat body. Turn. [4 sc, 2 sl st]

Row 2: Sk the sl sts, then sl st BLO each sc, turn, ch 1. [4 sl st BLO]

Row 3: Sc BLO in 4 sts, sl st in the next 2 sts of the last row of the hat body. Turn. [4 sc BLO, 2 sl st]

Repeat rows 2 and 3 respectively until return to first row. Flip hat inside out and sl st the last row to the first row. Fasten off. Weave in ends. If desired, use ends at MR to attach button inside the hat, then attach removable pom to button on the top.

Teen/adult small {adult med, adult lg}

Hat Body

Round 1: MR, sc 6 into MR, sl st to first sc to join, ch 1. [6 sc]

Round 2: 2 esc each st around, sl st to first esc to join, ch 1. [12 esc]

Round 3: 2 esc each st around, sl st to first esc to join, ch 1. [24 esc]

Round 4: 2 esc first st, esc next st then *2 esc next st, esc next st, repeat from * around, sl st to first esc to join, ch 1. [ 36 esc]

Round 5: 2 esc first st, esc next 5 sts then * 2 esc next st, esc next 5 sts, repeat from * around, sl st to first esc to join. [42 esc]

Round 6: Ch 1, 2 esc first st, esc next 6 sts, * 2 esc next st, esc next 6 sts, repeat from * around, sl st to first esc to join. [48 esc]

Teen/adult small and medium skip to round 8

Round 7: Ch 1, 2 esc first st, esc next 7 sts, * 2 esc next st, esc next 7 sts, repeat from * around, sl st to first esc to join. [54 esc]

Round 8: Beg CL, ch 1, *sk next st, CL next st, ch 1, repeat from * around, sl st to top of beg CL, ch 1. [1 beg CL, 24 {24, 27} CL, 24 {24, 27} ch-1]

Round 9: Puff each st around, sl st to top of first puff to join. [24 {24, 27} puff]

Round 10: Ch 1, esc each st around. [48 {48, 54} esc]

Round 11: Repeat round 8

Round 12: Repeat round 9

Round 13: Repeat round 10

Round 14: LG ONLY Repeat round 10

Hat Brim:

Row 1: Ch 7 {9, 11}, turn. Sc 2nd st from hook and each st, then sl st next 2 sts of the last row of the hat body. Turn. [6 {8, 10} sc, 2 sl st]

Row 2: Sk the sl sts, then sl st BLO each sc, turn, ch 1. [6 {8, 10} sl st BLO]

Row 3: Sc BLO in 6 {8, 10} sts, sl st next 2 sts of the last row of the hat body. Turn. [6 {8, 10} BLO, 2 sl st]

Repeat rows 2 and 3 respectively until return to first row. Flip hat inside out and sl st the last row to the first row. Fasten off. Weave in ends. If desired, use ends at MR to attach button inside the hat, then attach removable pom to button on the top.

Using multiple colors?

Start with color A, change to color B for each CL row and change to color C for each puff row, then change back to color A for esc rows and hat brim.

Follow Me